The inner Dolpo region remained in isolation till 1990 and till then it was a restricted area with no entry, especially for the foreigners. This place shares border with Tibet and is still culturally Tibetan. This place gained immense popularity and arouse interest of the people around the globe after the a book on this place was written by Matheson 'called the Snow Leopard', and even David Snell grove's 'Himalayan Pilgrimage' and George Schaller's 'Stones of Silence' among many other travel accounts has revealed a bit about this place but a visit is worth. Legend has it that the ubiquitous Guru Rimpoche, who spread Tibetan Buddhism throughout the Himalayas, discovered this hidden land, a 'beryl' or refuge, over 1700 years ago, and it has been inhabited by Tibetan nomads, called drokpas, for over a thousand years.
Dolpo is now part of the Nepali region of Dolpa, but historically came from the Zhangzhung Bon-po Kingdom which dominated Western Tibet for over a thousand years, later defeated by the first Tibetan dynasty, Yarlung, between the sixth and eighth centuries. Afterwards, Dolpo was governed by the Kingdom of Lo (now Mustang, formerly part of Tibet) until the Gorkha Kingdom took it over during its Inner Dolpo is a restricted area, for which a fee is charged of US$ 500 for the first 10 days, and US$ 50 for each additional day. Besides, there is a maximum of the number of foreigners that can enter Inner Dolpo each year. Currently this maximum is put at 250 people. This makes a trek into Inner Dolpo a very special and exclusive experience.
The trekking brings us to Shey Gompa, which is often referred to as the spiritual heart of Inner Dolpo. It's a magical place, situated at the base of Crystal Mountain, which is visited by hundreds of pilgrims each year. They make a kora (circuit) of the Crystal Mountain, Dolpo's own version of Mount Kailash.
It is a very strenuous hike. We have to cross three high passes, Kang La/ Ngadra La of 5350 m, the Shey La of 5000 m and Jeng La of 5110 m. These crossings involve long climbs and long descend. Besides, we stay above 4000 meters for a long time, with very cold nights. But the unforgettable landscapes, the views from the passes and the contacts with a very special untouched culture make it all worth it.
Outline Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
Day 02: Kathmandu: Sightseeing and Trek Preparation
Day 03: Flight to Nepalgunj.
Day 04: Flight to Juphal (2475 m), walk to Chhepka (2838 m) 6 hrs
Day 05: Trek to Chunuwar/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) 6 hrs
Day 06: Trek to Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) 3 hrs
Day 07: Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m), free day
Day 08: Trek to Chunemba (3639 m) 5 hrs
Day 09: Trek to Snowfields Camp (4400 m) 7 hrs
Day 10: Trek to Shey Gompa (4310 m) via Kang La (5375 m) 6 hrs
Day 11: Rest day Shey Gompa (4310 m)
Day 12: Trek to Namgung (4430 m) via Shey La (5000 m) 6 hrs
Day 13: Trek to Saldang (4060 m) 3 hrs
Day 14: Trek to Sibu (4200 m) 5 hrs
Day 15: Trek to Lagmo Che (4570 m) 4 hrs
Day 17: Trek to Dho Tarap (4080 m) 2 hrs
Day 18: Trek to Sisaul (3750 m) 4 hrs
Day 19: Trek to Laina Odar (3370 m) 7-8 hrs
Day 20: Trek to Lingdo (2391 m) 5 hrs
Day 21: Trek to Dunai (2140 m) 5 hrs
Day 23: Flight to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu
DAY 24: DEPARTURE
Itinerary Detail
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu
Arrival in the Kathmandu airport (TIA), you will be greeted by a representative from Adventure Mission Nepal (AMN) Trek and transfer to hotel .we will be discussing about the trek in details then in the evening we organize a welcome dinner at an excellent traditional Nepalese restaurant where you will enjoy the traditional food and cultural program. Overnight at hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu: Sightseeing and Trek Preparation
we will start a guided tour to several of the most historical and spiritual attractions and some of landmarks which are considered as world heritage sites including the historic Durbar Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupati Nath, the famous 'Monkey Temple' (Swayambunath) and Buddhists shrine (Buddha Nath) which is one of the large Stupas in the world. In the afternoon, there will be a pre-trip discussion where we can meet our trek leader and other team members. Overnight at hotel.
Day 03: Flight to Nepalgunj.
To reach Dolpa, we generally have to fly to Nepalgunj first. Nepalgunj is a steaming hot city in South Western Nepal, in the lowlands of Terai. Culturally the area is more resemble India than upland Nepal. Take a cycle rikshaw for a ride in town. We pass the hustle and bustle of the bazaar and see horse carts full of colorful people going to or coming from the Indian border. The Bageshowri temple is one of Nepal's most important Hindu temples and is worth a visit as well.
Day 04: Flight to Juphal (2475 m), walk to Chhepka (2838 m) 6 hrs
It takes just 35 min to reach to Juphal by plane. We can see over steep mountain ridges with beautiful views of snowcapped mountains.
From Juphal we start our trek down over a small path among fields with wheat and vegetables to the river named Thuli Bheri River. A big iron suspension bridge named the Dhim Bridge (99 m long) is the entrance to the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP). Shey Phoksundo National Park is Nepal's largest National Park, established in 1984, with an area of 3,555 km². On the way we reach to a river named Suli Khola. We pass some small villages on the way, like Kageni (2413 m) and Sangta (2520 m). The path is surrounded by pine trees, fir, juniper and cypress and passes small bamboo forests and walnut trees. At the other side of the river, the high rocky slope goes up steeply and is dotted with pine trees as well. At the end of the day we reach Chhepka, a small village, surrounded by fields of millet and wheat. Stay overnight at local guest house.
Day 05: Trek to Chunuwar/Amchi Hospital (3110 m) 6 hrs
The path goes through beautiful pine forests. It's following the river all the time and most of it is Nepali flat: sometimes going up and sometimes going down. At some parts the valley gets very narrow and the impressive steep rocks are towering high above we on both sides. After about four hours we pass the village of Rechi, where there is a camping spot. At the other side of the bridge, there is a small teashop as well.
The path continues at the other side of the bridge. It's two hours more to Chunuwar. Near the Chunuwar we can find the Amchi Hospital (An Amchi is a traditional Tibetan doctor with traditional method of treatment and medicine). This is a very interesting place to visit. We stay overnight at camp.
Day 06: Trek to Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m) 3 hrs
It's a short hike which includes a long and sometimes steep climb of about 2 hours. Just before reaching the top, we can see Nepal's highest waterfall measured 167 meters high, the Phoksundo Waterfall. The path is going down till it gets close to the river, which we follow until we reach Ringmo. Ringmo is a beautiful village situated at the shore of the holy Phoksundo Lake. This lake is of a stunning beauty. It has an enchanting deep blue color and is emerald green close to the shore. The water is crystal clear, with no aquatic life in it. The lake is surrounded by steep cliffs and snowcapped mountains. The colors change a bit during the day; we just won't get enough of simply looking at it. There we can find a wonderful campsite at the shore of the lake.
Day 07: Ringmo/Phoksundo Lake (3733 m), free day
It is suggested to have an extra day in Ringmo, as our body needs time to adjust to the higher altitude. As the Phoksundo Lake is such a beautiful place, we stay 1 day extra to explore the lake and its surrounding. We stay overnight at tented camp.
Day 08: Trek to Chunemba (3639 m) 5 hrs
We enter the restricted area of Inner Dolpo. We follow the famous Demons trails. It's a spectacular trail, going high above the lake. At some parts it gets very narrow due to landslides. The trail climbs to a ridge, from which we have a spectacular view on the lake, Ringmo, the dark green pine forests and the snowcapped mountain Norbung Kang (6085 m) to the south. It's now a gradual descend to the lake's northern shore, which is a good place for lunch. After this the trail climbs through a wide valley, crossing some streams. We get a splendid and nearby view to the flanks and tops of the snowcapped Kanjirowa Himal (6612 m). We reach at an alpine area with junipers, called Chuneba or Lakeside camp, which is a good place to camp.
Day 09: Trek to Snowfields Camp (4400 m) 7 hrs
The Phoksundo Valley gets quite narrow now, with high rock walls on both sides. We have to cross a couple of streams. After about half an hour, we leave the main valley and enter a narrow gorge. It's a long, pretty steep climb through the steep sided valley. The campsite is at Snowfields Camp. It's at the foot of the pass.
Day 10: Trek to Shey Gompa (4310 m) via Kang La (5375 m) 6 hrs
It's a long and strenuous climb of about 2½ hours over a dusty path to Kang La (5350 m), locally also called Ngadra La. Prayer flags and cairns mark the pass. At the north side of the pass, there is snow most of the times, which makes the descend a bit difficult. The descend is pretty steep the first 45 minutes, but after this, it is going gradually for about 3 hours, till we reach Shey Gompa. Getting nearer, we pass red and white chortens and Mani walls. It's a magical place, and Shey Gompa is often called the spiritual heart of Dolpa. The women wear dark dresses with colorful aprons made from yak wool. Men wear a long coat, from which they let one sleeve hanging down. We stay overnight at tented camp.
Day 11: Rest day Shey Gompa (4310 m)
We can go to Tsakang Gompa (4575 m), a monastery from the Buddhist Kagyupa sect. This gompa appears in the movie Himalaya as well. It is spectacularly located high on a red rocky slope. The trail to Tsakang Gompa partly follows the same trail as pilgrims follow to make a kora of the Crystal Peak. We will probably see flocks of blue sheep in these areas. Besides, in these regions we have the best chance of seeing the snowleopard.we stay overnight at camp.
Day 12: Trek to Namgung (4430 m) via Shey La (5000 m) 6 hrs
The climb to the pass goes through a narrow valley. From the pass we have a good view to the north of the arid Tibetan Plateau; to the east we can see Mustang. After the pass, it's a long descend to the pastures of Namgung. Scattered in the landscape, we will see some fields, many times with a big Tibetan tent, as the fields are too far from the village. The people in Namgung are very friendly and open. We stay overnight at camp.
Day 13: Trek to Saldang (4060 m) 3 hrs
It's a short hiking .The path goes high above the Namgung Khola (River) and then descends steeply to the village of Saldang. Saldang is the largest settlement of Inner-Dolpo. It's a spread out, traditional agricultural village, surrounded by fields. Barley, buckwheat and potatoes are among the few crops that can grow in this barren landscape. Saldang is close to the Tibetan border and some of the salt trade caravans pass through Saldang. The people from Saldang are semi-nomadic. In the warm months they trek in the highlands with their herds of yaks and sheep. The ones who are better off let the pure nomadic people of Dolpa, the Drokpa, do this work. We stay at tented camp.
Day 14: Trek to Sibu (4200 m) 5 hrs
It's a fairly easy walk to Sibu, following the Namgung Khola southwards and passing little villages, like Namdo, along the way. The villages are surrounded by terraced fields of barley. The path goes alongside many Mani walls, chortens and some gompa's, which makes we realize how important Buddhism is for the people of Inner Dolpo. We stay overnight at camp.
Day 15: Trek to Lagmo Che (4570 m) 4 hrs
The trail starts with an easy stretch, following the river. The last village we pass is Raka. After this, we enter a large, inhabited valley. After 2 hours of trekking, the path turns away from the river and climbs steeply to a meadow of about 4570 m, which is often used by yaks to graze. This is Lagmo Che, the base camp for climbing to the Jeng La.
Day 16: Trek to Tokyu (4209 m) via Jeng La (5110 m) 7 hrs
It's a steep climb of about 2 hours to reach the next pass: Jeng La at 5110 m. From the pass we have a spectacular view to the Dhaulagiri (8167 m) and many other snowcapped mountains. After the pass we descend into the Tarap Valley. We arrive at the village Tokyu (4209), a spread out village, which is the first human settlement after Raka. Tokyu is said to be the highest permanent settlement in the world. The gompa is worth a visit and has a beautiful statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha.
Day 17: Trek to Dho Tarap (4080 m) 2 hrs
On the way, we pass the Cristal Mountain School, which is educating children from Dho and surroundings. o. At the entrance we pass a beautiful gate chorten. The people in Dho are very friendly and it is easy to make contact. Dho Tarap is a traditional agricultural village, surrounded by fields. As in the other villages we came across, barley, buckwheat and potatoes are among the few crops that can grow here. The houses are made of stones found in the river valley and are in typical Tibetan style, with small windows and the flat roofs stocked with firewood. Close to Dho are 2 monasteries which are worth a visit. Ribo Bhumpa Gompa, right on the hill behind Dho, and Shipchaur Gompa, which is in the village Shipchowk, 30 minutes walking from Dho.we stay overnight at tented camp.
Day 18: Trek to Sisaul (3750 m) 4 hrs
Leaving Dho Tarap, we come along many mani walls and small chortens. The path is going down, following the Tarap Khola. Gradually we can see the landscape changing and bushes greenery .Just before arriving at Sisaul, we have to climb to a small pass. After the pass, the valley gets narrow. It's a short descend to Sisaul, where we stay overnight at camp site.
Day 19: Trek to Laina Odar (3370 m) 7-8 hrs
We climb to a small pass with a nice chortens. On our both side we mostly walk in the river valley with high rocks towering above. It's a fairly easy walk of about 3 to 3½ hours from Sisaul to Nawarpani. The path gradually goes down. At some parts the path is beautifully carved out of the rock, so that we find walking in a kind of three sided tunnel.
After Nawarpani, the landscape gets quickly greener and the path is sometimes going through pine forests, with a wonderful smell. It's a fairly easy walk over a pretty large path, which sometimes goes very high above the river. We reach Liana Odar where there is tent-hotel, located at the riverside. This is a good place to camp.
Day 20: Trek to Lingdo (2391 m) 5 hrs
The trail goes down pretty steep to Laisicap (2772 m). The path goes partly through forests and we are surrounded by steep cliffs full of pine trees, mostly spruce, fir, juniper and cypress, some of which are huge. The walk to Laisicap takes about 3 hours. At Laisicap we cross Thuli Bheri River over a large suspension bridge of 120 meter, high above the river.
The trail goes down pretty steep for about 45 minutes. The landscape is impressive and sometimes very green. The sharp rocks are dotted with junipers and other pine trees. Behind we, we can see the beautiful snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m).Getting closer to Lingdo, we can see some other villages in the distance, like Tarakot, which is situated high on a cliff.. We pass some Mani walls and chortens. Lingdo is a small village with people who live in this region are Tarali's, a Magar group (who are Buddhist as well).
Day 21: Trek to Dunai (2140 m) 5 hrs
The first part goes through rough landscape. The path is sometimes carved out of the rocks, and at a few points very narrow. After about 2 ½ hours we reach the small village of Byasgar (2427 m). After Byasgar, the landscape gets greener and sometimes reminds to the European Alps. Rocky slopes are dotted with pine trees, mostly blue pine. At the horizon we see the snowcapped Kang Tokal (6294 m). The path goes slightly up and down, following the Thuli Bheri River, once and a while passing a couple of houses.
Dunai is the headquarters of Dolpa District. It's a large village, of about 2.500 people, more or less half Hindu and half Buddhist. Up the hill, there is a Buddhist monastery, the Dolpa Kendriya Gompa, which is worth a visit. It is situated at the slope at the other site of the river, overlooking Dunai. A bit further away from Dunai, at the same slope, we can find the Dolpo Bon School and Hostel. Besides the normal teachings that children receive at common schools, the Bon School educates children in the Bonpo religion, Tibetan culture and Tibetan language and gives us explanations about the Bonpo religion and culture. Besides the Hostel, there is a beautiful stupa with holds a century old footprint of an important lama. We stay overnight at tented camp.
Day 22: Trek to Juphal (2475 m) 3½ hrs
It's a short walk to Juphal. After about 45 minutes we reach a beautiful gate chorten (stupa), which is the entrance to the VDC (Village Development Committee) Dunai. We pass the big iron suspension bridge, which we crossed on the first day to get into the Shey Phoksundo National Park. From the bridge, it's about 2½ - 3 hours to Juphal. Juphal is a large village with a small bazaar where it is nice to spend some time looking around. We stay overnight at local guest house.
Day 23: Flight to Nepalgunj and Kathmandu
Early in the morning we fly to Nepalgunj. Part of the flight through the mountain valleys is spectacular. Later, we fly back to Kathmandu. Spend he leisure time in to explore around city or on shopping and overnight at hotel.
DAY 24: DEPARTURE
Departure at the estimated time of flight onwards to your destination.